As the holiday season approaches, many young people are eyeing skin care products as potential gifts. But experts caution parents to be mindful of what they’re purchasing, especially when it comes to products marketed toward tweens and teens.
One example is 10-year-old Riley Rosebro, who has requested a Bubble Skincare Water Slide serum containing hyaluronic acid this Christmas. She’s captivated by the periwinkle blue bottle and the product’s purported hydrating effects, but her parents, Will and Melissa, worry that she doesn’t fully understand the impact such a product might have on her skin. “She doesn’t care what’s in it,” said Will Rosebro. “It just felt nice on her skin when she tried it at a friend’s house.”
Riley’s case is not unusual. Social media influencers on platforms like YouTube and TikTok, particularly those in the #grwm (get ready with me) space, have fueled a trend of young people becoming increasingly interested in skin care. According to market research firm AYTM, Generation Alpha—the cohort born after 2010—spent a whopping $4.7 billion on skin care and makeup in 2023, outspending any other age group. Some of the products marketed to them are high-end, with a single serum or face cream from luxury brands costing hundreds of dollars.
While these products may seem appealing, they can pose risks for young skin. Tweens often face pressure to emulate the glossy, flawless complexions of online influencers. But dermatologists warn that many of the ingredients in products aimed at this demographic can be too harsh for young skin, potentially leading to irritation or long-term damage.
The ‘Sephora Kids’ Trend Raises Concerns
A troubling trend has emerged where preteens—dubbed “Sephora Kids”—are purchasing expensive, often age-inappropriate, skin care products from stores like Sephora and Ulta. Some of these young shoppers have been caught mixing and overusing testers in ways that could be harmful, prompting concern from both parents and dermatologists.
California lawmakers have even taken action in response to these concerns. Starting in January 2024, children under 13 in the state will no longer be able to purchase skin care products containing anti-aging ingredients like retinoids, which are often found in products marketed as rejuvenating or firming.
For the Rosebro family, their daughter’s choice of a simple, inexpensive serum is a relief, as it likely won’t cause harm to her skin. But experts warn that parents need to scrutinize products carefully before allowing their children to use them. Words like “brightening,” “plumping,” “radiance,” and “firming” can indicate that a product contains harsh, age-targeted ingredients that young skin doesn’t need—and may not be able to tolerate.
What to Look for in Tween Skin Care
According to dermatologists, young people don’t need products with anti-aging ingredients like collagen boosters or exfoliating acids. At this stage, tweens’ skin is naturally full of collagen, which gives it elasticity and strength. Aggressive ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and topical vitamin C—often marketed under the guise of “brightening” or “glowing”—can cause more harm than good by damaging the skin’s natural barrier.
Tiffany Clay-Ramsey, a dermatologist in Atlanta, explains that using these harsh ingredients can compromise the skin barrier, which protects against environmental irritants like pollution and bacteria. Disrupting this protective layer can result in dryness, cracking, and irritation. In some cases, it can even make skin more vulnerable to pathogens, triggering allergic reactions or infections.
While young skin is resilient, it’s still susceptible to overuse of strong products. Many skin care items targeted at teens and tweens can also make skin more sensitive to sun exposure, heightening the risk of severe sunburns—an issue compounded by many young people’s lax sunscreen habits.
The Right Skin Care Routine for Tweens
So, what should tweens be using on their skin? Dermatologists recommend a simple routine that includes a gentle cleanser, a hydrating moisturizer (preferably unscented), and a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30. These basic steps are sufficient for most young people, and they provide the hydration and protection their skin needs without the risk of irritation.
If your tween is looking for a little extra pampering, experts suggest opting for products with soothing ingredients, such as aloe or chamomile. Look for products with labels that emphasize hydration and calming effects, rather than those promising brightening or firming.
Caveats About ‘Brightening’ and ‘Glowing’ Products
The terms “brightening” and “glowing” may sound appealing, but they are often code for exfoliating properties—ingredients that can strip away the skin’s protective layer. Watch out for products containing AHAs, BHAs, niacinamide, and vitamin C, all of which can be too harsh for young skin.
Dr. Adam Friedman, a dermatologist in Washington, D.C., warns that exfoliating acids can disrupt a child’s thinner skin, leaving it vulnerable to bacteria, fungi, and other irritants. Additionally, products with exfoliating properties can increase the skin’s water loss, leading to dry, flaky, and irritated skin. The skin also becomes more prone to sun sensitivity, making it more susceptible to burns when exposed to UV rays.
Final Thoughts for Parents
As the holiday season approaches, it’s important for parents to be cautious when shopping for skin care products for tweens and teens. With social media influencers driving trends, it’s easy to forget that young skin has different needs than adult skin. By reading labels carefully and choosing gentle, hydrating products, parents can help ensure that their children’s skin remains healthy and protected, without the unnecessary risks associated with aggressive anti-aging or exfoliating treatments.
Ultimately, the best skin care routine for young people is one that focuses on hydration, protection, and simplicity. And when in doubt, dermatologists recommend opting for products with soothing ingredients, free from harsh chemicals that could potentially harm their skin in the long run.
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