Braided hairstyles, including bohemian braids and feed-ins, have long been popular among Black communities for their versatility and ease. Synthetic hair, often used for these styles, provides a more affordable and longer-lasting option. However, new studies reveal that these synthetic fibers may contain toxic chemicals, raising concerns over health risks like cancer.
A report released by Consumer Reports revealed troubling findings after testing 10 popular synthetic hair brands used in braiding. The study found high levels of lead, acetone, and harmful pesticides in many of the brands, with all of them containing carcinogens—chemicals known to cause cancer. The brands tested include names like Magic Fingers, Sassy Collection, Sensationnel, and Shake-N-Go.
Synthetic braids, made from plastic fibers like Kanekalon, are particularly popular among Black women aged 18 to 34, according to market research firm Mintel. But for some, these braids come with serious side effects. Ciara Imani May, an entrepreneur and former professor at Johnson C. Smith University in Charlotte, North Carolina, had long suspected that synthetic braids could be contributing to scalp irritation. After researching the issue, she developed a plant-based alternative in 2019.
“I wanted to create the most accessible plant-based alternative on the market, so people could switch without the itch,” May said. Her brand, Rebundle, uses banana fibers to produce biodegradable, skin-safe braiding hair, designed with the health of Black women in mind.
May’s concerns about the chemicals in synthetic hair were confirmed by the Consumer Reports study, which found that volatile organic compounds (VOCs) were present in all the synthetic hair tested. These VOCs are toxic chemicals often found in paints, refrigerants, and pharmaceuticals. Prolonged exposure to VOCs can lead to eye and throat irritation, nausea, and even cancer, according to the American Lung Association. The braiding process can exacerbate the risks, as heat treatments like dipping braids in boiling water can release even more harmful gases.
The POETYK PsA-1 clinical trial and similar studies have highlighted the potential hazards of synthetic hair. With reports of braiders suffering from contact dermatitis and clients complaining of scalp tenderness, the risks are clear. As a result, May and other entrepreneurs have pushed for change, creating plant-based alternatives like Nourie, Ruka, and LAB Hair Without Harm.
Desiree Mills, a braider from the Bronx, has seen firsthand the benefits of using plant-based hair. She frequently uses Rebundle for clients who experience allergic reactions or scalp irritation from traditional synthetic hair. “As Black women, we’re starting to get more information about what we put on our hair. Our hair is like a flower—it needs care and hydration,” Mills explained.
Mills notes that plant-based alternatives, like Rebundle, offer a smoother, more natural texture compared to synthetic fibers, which can feel rough and waxy. While plant-based hair costs more—about $36 per pack compared to $4 to $8 for synthetic hair—the benefits of reduced irritation and fewer packs needed per style may offset the higher price.
The shift from chemical hair relaxers to natural styles, driven by health concerns, shows that Black women are increasingly making more thoughtful choices about their beauty routines. After a 2012 study revealed the cancer risks of hair relaxers, many Black women moved away from chemical treatments. In turn, sales of hair relaxers dropped from $71 million in 2011 to just $30 million in 2021, according to Kline + Company, a market research firm.
May believes a similar shift is possible with braiding hair. “It’s about reducing the risks as much as possible by making more thoughtful choices,” she said. With increasing awareness and plant-based alternatives on the market, Black women now have more options to protect both their health and their style.
Related Topics:
