At age 10, Ayva Peña’s interest in skincare grew quickly after she got her first phone. She enjoyed sharing skincare moments with her mother, Giselle Peña, including spa days and shopping trips. But when Giselle found a $300 anti-aging cream in Ayva’s medicine drawer, she became concerned.
“She’s only 15 years old,” Giselle said. “The cream claimed to make skin ageless and improve wrinkles. I thought, ‘This is not for you.’”
Giselle is part of a growing group of parents worried about how social media influences children and teens to try complicated and often unsuitable skincare routines. A new study published Monday in the journal Pediatrics supports these concerns.
Researchers analyzed 100 TikTok videos from creators aged 7 to 18. They found that the average routine included 11 potentially irritating active ingredients. Many of these ingredients increase the risk of skin allergies and sun sensitivity. Only 25% of these routines included sunscreen.
Dr. Molly Hales, the study’s lead author and a dermatologist at Northwestern University, noted that most of these young creators had clear skin without acne. “For many of them, the harms probably outweigh any potential benefits,” she said.
The average routine had six steps and cost about $168 per month, with some routines exceeding $500. Hales added, “When kids wake up at 5:30 a.m. on school days to apply these complicated regimens, it becomes less about health and more about chasing an unrealistic idea of beauty.”
TikTok responded by saying the platform is meant for users 13 and older and that accounts suspected to be underage are removed. The company also works with experts to create safeguards for young users.
The study highlighted that most routines lacked sunscreen, despite including ingredients that increase sun sensitivity. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), common in these routines, exfoliate skin but make it more vulnerable to ultraviolet rays.
Hales recommended daily sunscreen use, especially when using AHAs, to prevent permanent skin damage. Other ingredients, such as niacinamide, can also irritate skin if overused.
Dr. Tara Lagu, a senior study author, said many young users might unknowingly apply the same active ingredient multiple times, increasing irritation risks. The study found that more than half of the products contained fragrance, a common allergen, along with 20 other known allergens.
Dr. Sonal Shah, a pediatric dermatologist not involved in the study, emphasized that many young content creators lack scientific knowledge about the products they use. She encouraged parents to seek advice from board-certified dermatologists, some of whom share credible information on TikTok.
Shah also warned against rough exfoliants like scrubbing wands and microbead cleansers, which can damage delicate skin.
The study also noted a lack of inclusivity, as many tips were aimed at lighter skin tones, ignoring the unique needs of darker complexions and reinforcing harmful ideas about “brighter” skin.
For teens without acne, Shah and Hales recommend a simple routine: a gentle cleanser, fragrance-free moisturizer, and daily mineral sunscreen. Anti-aging products are unnecessary for young skin because collagen production is naturally high.
For teens with acne, over-the-counter products with salicylic acid or low-percentage benzoyl peroxide can help. “Skincare does not have to be complicated or expensive,” Shah said. Parents should consult dermatologists if skin issues persist.
Psychology professor Jennifer Harriger advises parents to keep open conversations with their children about social media messages and their reasons for choosing skincare products.
Dr. Hales also noted that these videos reflect young girls’ exploration of identity and self-expression. “These girls are starting to develop their independent identity, how they present themselves, and what it means to be a girl in society,” she said.
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